Home is where your Temperpedic pillow is!

What a crazy and eventful past two weeks its been.  Finally arrived in Mazar to begin the new job.  There seem to be great people on this project - barring one - but she was just forced to resign.  More on that later.  Still no official word on the future of the project, but we are moving forward with a greatly reduced staff.  I spent the first two weeks in what I'll refer to as the "ghetto villa" - old, dirty, a mattress of torture and a shared, nasty bathroom with a less than considerate young guy - and it smelled like the monkey house at the zoo.  The whole place did thanks to old plumbing and sewer gas coming up through the drains.  Not much to write home about when the day ended and I came back to my room.

However, the upside here is plentiful.  A market we can visit and shop for groceries and other necessities, a few restaurants we can patronize, alcohol available for purchase (but at greatly inflated prices) and the city is green and beautiful!  The first week I was here I attended a cookout at a German organization's house - it was attended by many people from different UN organizations, the ICRC and other NGO's.  Really fun and tons of interesting people just hanging out and enjoying food and drink.  There was also a house dog and a few bossy kitties wandering around which was great.  They have these elevated platforms here with small railings around the edges and usually some kind of cover or roof on the top.  The platform is covered with pillows and you just lounge around on them, smoke the Hookah (the apple is my favorite flavor) and chat - I think I need one of these on my deck when I finally return home.  I love them - have no idea what it's called, but they had a similar setup in the cafes in Turkey.  Lounge Lizard!  We have one here and other than a few mosquito bites, it's really fun in the evening.

I made my first journey to the city of Aybak my first week to discuss their park project - how convenient for me to have planned parks for 2 short months - really coming in handy.  Interesting meeting and I had a media camera in my face the whole time.  I also have finally had to cave and now wear a headscarf to these meetings.   A real experience - they trap the heat, you have limited peripheral vision and they make me feel like an old gypsy woman for some reason - think old horror movies and the gypsy caravan... I had it going on, except for the requisite facial mole and crystal ball... "leeet meee warn yoouu (cue the howling in the background) about de fun-diing of de prooojeeect."  I was a sweaty, hot mess and when you have the meetings with the big guys, it's very formal and somewhat intimidating - and it's hot as hell here right now.  They sit across a very large room and the discussions occur through an interpreter - lots of pregnant pauses and much more being said than is ever translated.  Plus they always serve you hot tea, most likely with local water, and you better drink it and worry about potential intestinal problems later.  I couldn't wait to get that damn thing off my head, jump into my gypsy caravan wagon and skedaddle into the sunset.  On the way there and back we drove through the most beautiful area I have ever seen here - the Kholm Pass - reminded me of the landscapes in the American west.  Stunning.

This week we finally moved into our gorgeous guest house!  I am on the 3rd floor, with a beautiful view of the  mountains from my private balcony.  Seriously, I am living in such a nice place (finally) that I forget I'm actually in Afghanistan.  With the comfy room, beautiful house and grounds, freedom of movement and my own bathroom, I often have to remind myself where I am these days.  We did have a bicycle bomb a few days ago and that was a gentle reminder to watch out.  Tomorrow I leave for Kabul for a couple of days of training and as luck would have it, two of my favorite past co-workers will be there as well - we plan to meet up for dinner.  See - kind of normal right now!

I thought I would devote the end of this quick post to a collage, if you will, of all the places I've lived since I've been here.  Quite interesting and I cannot believe I managed to deal with some of these places - I'm telling you it makes a world of difference to begin at the bottom and work your way up.  I've met people here who would never consider living in a tent or a plywood hut with no windows.  When I decided to come here and work, I just did it.  Just did it... and now looking back I'm amazed because it was hard, and tough, often unpleasant, frequently frightening, often boring but also one of the most exciting things I've ever done - so far!  I think I'm blessed with the bliss of ignorance and the willing to make the best of almost anything - but more importantly, a phenomenal other half, family and group of friends.  Trust me when I say that this was only made possible by having the support network I do.  So, enough of reflection and sweetness - here's the walk down my housing history in Afghanistan.  I so wish I would have taken pictures of the bathrooms, because that's where the real personal fortitude comes into play - most of them were either disgusting, a hike from where I was living or a combination of both.  On rare occasions have they been tolerable.  Enjoy!


My first "home"

My small space - arrived at 3am in a rain storm with a flashlight

the muddy road in front - had to walk over a mile each way to work every day.  Bathrooms - disgusting!

Ghazni - 3 weeks here at Polish Camp

My home for 6 months at KAF

KAF, small 8 x 10 room - and mice

But the bathrooms were great!

broken ankle in tent room - not fun - beer, fake

New job - Hotel Kandahar, 2 months

Office compound and some favorite co-workers - didn't take a pic of my room

My room at hotel - not bad at all!

Hotel Kandahar courtyard

my container at KPRT in Kandahar - had an 8 x 10 side and had to share - not great - also on the perimeter wall, but I had a pet cat - Lt. Dan

My fabulous room in Mazar!

nice room at FOB Wilson - HORRIBLE port-o-john!

View from my balcony

patio at FOB Wilson

the balcony!

and... drum roll... my own, clean, sunny bathroom!

After looking at these pictures, I realize that I've been living like a turtle with my house on my back - I've carted my stuff all over this country!  I've also tolerated a variety of vermin, flies, scorpions and snakes.  Finally, I'm in a really nice place and hoping the contract lasts, I can do my year here in comfort, the work remains interesting and the co-workers fun!

And the best part... Drink of the Night - an Italian red wine, purchase legally!  Pinkies up!

Vacation Vocation

Weeellll.  This has so far been one hell of a week.  Unbelievable, but true.  Finally I made it out of Kandahar on the 29th, but not after a nine hour delay.  I waited around the hot, dusty PAX terminal on base with a myriad of young soldiers waiting to fly home for their leave.  Originally, I was to leave at 1pm and would have been placing that delightful hotel key card into the slot of my room around 4pm - by 9pm, still at PAX, I was trying to stifle a homicidal rage at both the fact that I was still in Afghanistan and that I also lost a day at the hotel I had already paid for.  I made it finally and that key card gained me access to my room at midnight - disappointed, but I was finally here!  The sound of the ocean, smell of something other than dirt and filth and actual moisture in the air was a welcome relief.

camels on the beach

self explanatory - the Palm Island is right in front of you!

view from my balcony

favorite pool and swim-up bar

My first day in Dubai was glorious - waking up in a pillow top, king size bed, walking out on my balcony to enjoy a hot cup of tea in the morning, a few hours at the pool (and pool bar), then a mani, pedi and much needed haircut at the salon.  Capped the afternoon by a walk on the beach, beautiful filet mignon for an early dinner and I was fully and totally committed to the week of relaxation I had ahead of me.  The pool and beach were interesting - body image in other countries is very different than that of the average US citizen.  The whole range from the genetically gifted to some very large Russian and British men (many in Speedos), more back hair than I've ever seen in one sitting thanks to the Arabs and two-pieces on women no matter what their size.  Quite interesting people watching.  It was so hot that your knees were sweating which made the pool and pool bar so much more fun.  I was amazed at watching all of the Muslim women in full black dress, walking on the beach and resort grounds.  Incredibly hot and muggy - so much so that the sea water was as warm as the outside - you could hardly tell that you were even wet - weird sensation!

View from my room window in Kabul

Then... I checked my email... a note from my new employer informing me that the funding for our project is suddenly under review and that I might need to stay in Dubai indefinitely (at their expense) until they had more information.  After a few exchanges of information, the picture looked bleak and I had no idea what would happen, job or no job, project or no project - only that I was in a strangely exotic location, trying to relax and hadn't even made it 24 hours until I was blindsided with some potentially horrific news.  And, it was the Thursday before a holiday weekend so no more info until the next week.  However, I was supposed to leave the following Thursday the 7th, so I made up my mind to try to relax and enjoy myself.  I did a pretty decent job other than totally being convinced that I had dislocated my jaw while sleeping thanks to doing so with my jaws massively clenched - the jury is still out on that one, but I can hardly open my Hillbilly cake hole and it's really painful to chew.  Still no news by the eve prior to my original departure date thanks to the time change, so I literally woke up Thursday morning to an email that said I was flying to Kabul, but that the project was still up in the air.


So here I am - in Kabul, which I've never flown into but its a civilian, not military airport.  Had to hunt my luggage down after waiting for it for over an hour.  A kind employee had it in his "office" - actually, he'd taken my luggage in hopes of collecting a finders fee for it, but I pulled out the "not playin' " face, with a side-eye of  attitude, took my luggage and left.  I'd had one hell of a week of stress while trying to vacation, topped off with sitting next to two Afghan men on the flight over with "cultural differences" (a nice term I came up with to describe horrific body odor, eating like an animal and other related issues) that had resulted in the Wino having an upset stomach and pounding headache - it was eye watering horrible, but really, I'm in their country so it's not up to me to judge.  And you certainly know when you're back here because the coughing, running nose and watery eyes begin within hours of touchdown.

AnyidoNOTtakeshit, I am now in Kabul enjoying a Friday off and leave for Mazar on Saturday afternoon.  I still have no idea what the fate of the program will be, but I did find out while dining at the villa where I am currently staying that many of my future project coworker's flights were canceled.  I think I lucked out by being in Dubai and it being cheaper to just fly me here.  Now I will work my Svengali magic and make myself as useful as possible.  I just want one more year here and then it's home for a nice break with all my short term goals accomplished!  Then I hope to find work anyplace else but back here!

I will say that if it weren't for my family, friends and significant other, I don't know how I could continue to do this work in this particular country.  The kind of situation I just went through while on vacation is mind boggling stressful, not to mention some of the situations and working conditions here.  It takes a lot of self-motivation to continue to come back to this place.  If I did not have my support system and constant good thoughts of home, I would be in trouble.  I try to look at the bigger picture in terms of working here and what I can learn and hopefully apply in new countries.  But at times, it kicks my behind being here and doing what I do. I will say, however, that it's a totally different vibe up here in Kabul and everyone here raves about Mazar.  It's almost normal down to being able to go to restaurants, shops, bars - today I was invited to go out for lunch and then a trip to the market and I caught myself just staring blankly with a look like "out?  Wha..?"  I've never been out here (other than my last trip to Kabul). On days off in the Kandahar region you spend your time following the shade shadows while you sit outside with your friends and swat at the flies that are crawling all over you.  Point being is that I think I'm about to experience something that is totally unreal to me in terms of my thoughts on Afghanistan - instead of the "Stinkistan" it could become the "SocialSceneIstan" or, dare I say "Relaxistan", "Notsobadistan"... just with occasional bombs.  I'll keep ya'll posted!  The adventure continues and I hope that everyone at home is enjoying their summer!

Drink of the Day - A hot, aromatic tea on the balcony overlooking Kabul

Death by Green Beans

Finally, finally the Blogger site is no longer blocked by the internet here and I can resume my postings.  Much has happened since my last post including an excellent and much needed 3 week trip home with family and friends, and a shiny new job, right out of the box.

Lets see, the state of affairs here is dire and soul crushing.  This program is failing and could possibly be better managed and planned by feces throwing monkeys.  Our client, a division of USAID, could not organize themselves out of a wet paper bag with the current leadership here on the ground.  Apparently, this program is quite successful in other countries, but cannot be applied successfully considering the current circumstances in the Kandahar area/southern region.  So it feels like we are trying to implement other people's self-serving career building rather than actual functioning and impact inducing projects.  The Wino's answer to this dilemma - make like a baby and head out!  Especially before the stench of failure permeates my clothing and personal belongings.

All things considered, this blog represents my own personal experiences and perceptions.  Unlike others,  I don't consider a "success story" (that we're so fond of circulating in print) to consist of some governmental official managing to sit upright in a chair and continue to breath. Call me close to being burnt out, but the lack of any expectation of accountability on the part of our Afghan partners down here in the south is no longer within my ability to stand - or keep a straight face.  In all fairness, these programs are experiencing a level of success - sometimes significant - in other parts of the country, but just not here.  So I'm off to hitch my proverbial wagon to a new program beginning in the north where I am told the culture, level of education, attitudes and religious extremism are a totally different situation - as is the alarmingly different level of violence. 

As of mid-July, I will be working and living in Mazar-e-Sharif and really can't wait.  Several of the co-workers I currently have left (many jobs have been eliminated and many more have gone off to greener pastures) have worked in the northern region.  The stories are amazing and I feel like some little kid, eagerly leaning in and asking ... "tell me more Grandpa!"  I absolutely cannot relate to what I'm hearing about this part of Afghanistan and am anxious to get up there and experience it myself.  I hear it's very green, in the mountains, the people and attitudes are quite different and it was an area that was last to fall to the Taliban and the first to liberate from them.  My living situation will include residing in a villa in town which will be near other agency villas and down the road from the UN compound.  I've included some photos below from the villa where I stayed while in Kabul back in April - just in case curious minds want to know what I'm talking about.  The stories I've heard rival the "house party" atmosphere so common and fun in college - not all the time mind you, but not a rare occurrence either.  Our villa apparently has a small swimming pool and gardens (this seems unreal to me) and you have some ability of freedom of movement to walk to local shops and restaurants and see your own projects.  This Hillbilly is rather wary of wondering around too much as I don't trust anyone here or any situation - that is a direct result of living and working in the south, but also quite wise in my opinion. The job itself sounds incredibly cool and there is an aspect of women's engagement and youth building (stop laughing) built into it.  I think some well organized dodge ball teams can take care of the kid problem here :)  Primarily my focus is on developing governance systems, municipal services and related economic activities as well as other related programming.  Sounds like I will also be working with some amazing and experienced professionals once again too - something that made this current job fantastic.


The negatives - not many, but Mazar hosts the same UN compound that was just stormed by an angry mob in April and resulted in many UN workers being killed and beheaded - the details on that situation are too unpleasant and sad for me to repeat.  Also, it's an area that's considered quite secure so Karzai (someone who should be assassinated and is a total, useless POS) is transitioning security in the north and west over to Afghan forces.  That's resulted in many news stories of bombings and shootings up there as the Afghan forces are occasionally infiltrated by insurgents who then take the opportunity to kill local politicians, leaders and other Afghan and ISAF security forces.  My point of caution will be to pay extra close attention to where I am and what I'm doing since a large part of my job is working directly with these local leaders and politicians.  Simples!

From the roof of a villa in Kabul

an old Russian tank in front of villa

behind villa - Afghan neighborhood

Close up of burnt out tank

View of other villas - nice, eh?

another shot of the neighborhood behind - people jog on that hill

Sooooo, I'm out of here at the end of June, will enjoy a week of the beach and a swim up bar in Dubai while trying to ignore the fact that it's so hot and humid there right now it's like breathing though a hot, wet towel in a boiling sauna.  120 degrees and amazing humidity.  Who Cares!!! That's what the swim-up bar is for and why the good Lord invented white wine... and water.  Then I'm back to begin my last year of work in the Stinkastan!

I am hoping that the new digs are minus the rodent, fly and now scorpion infestation that I currently enjoy here while at our office compound.  I am impervious to freaking out over fat mice/or small rats, the flies still make me homicidal, but now the scorpions are out and ruining my foot loose and fancy free flip flop evening attire.  I hate it here.  How can I be the Hillbilly Wino without flip flops?  I'm already trying to do it without wine.  This evening at dinner, I was trying to enjoy my pedestrian meal and happened to look down as a fly committed suicide right into my green beans - kamikaze style - had I not seen it happen, I would have blissfully enjoyed the extra protein without being the wiser.  Then another fly crawled out from under my neighbors pie crust while she was eating it.  On top of it  all, it was recommended that I get "de-wormed" when I finally go home since most likely I'm the hostess with the mostess and don't even realize it.  All courtesy of eating and living here.  Seriously, what am I - a puppy?

So that pretty much sums up the state of the union for the Wino.  Trust me, I am totally aware of the seething sarcasm and negativity jumping from the computer screen.  I'm hoping that a change of scenery and new project will help with perspective and renewed vigor so that I can once again approach nation building with the enthusiasm it requires!  Otherwise I will be the governance and stabilization version of a sexually frustrated Nun.  Negative and angry - and I so hate to let myself get to that point or remain there too long.  This portion of the journey is coming to an end and hopefully the next chapter will feel like a new country and totally different in ways that I cannot imagine.

Hang tough comrades!  And, enjoy the summer :)

Drink of the night - Pakistani Vodka with a warm diet coke - flip flops optional.

Simples!

Sorry it's been so long since a post, but I needed to make sure I had something to write that was accurate for at least 24 hours before I posted.  Let's see... returned from an exhilarating vacation, barring a horrible cold/flu I caught during the last leg, and within 3 hours of arriving back to my office compound we had a huge meeting and the staff was cut by 25%.  I was certain I was to go, but after 3 hours of waiting (as we were called in 1 by 1) I was informed that not only was I staying, but they loved my work and were sending me to FOB Wilson to clean up the mess there.  If you recall, FOB Wilson was one of the bases I spent all last summer planning - just the mention of it made me tense.  So, that began a series of back and forth changes that lasted for 3 weeks - you're going, you're not going, we're developing a new position for you, you're going, no... and finally I was going for sure and here I am.  The reason for the cuts has to do with the funding we receive through USAID, who in return receives if from Congress and FY11 doesn't come through for a few months.  Our program is also going through an audit and that's not helping - basically, it's still somewhat up in the air, but we did get enough money to continue for a few more months in hopes of more coming in.  So that covers that - as you can imagine, it's been a tense time.

As for being back, I arrived just in time for fly and rodent season.  Mice and flies all over our dining facility, then rats in the food, topped by me opening the fridge to grab a plate and there being a large mouse on top of it - by that time I didn't even flinch.  This was making my Menno Paws situation last spring look like something a baby could handle.  They were finally able to get that somewhat under control but it took days for me to get my gag reflex back in check - was scared to eat or touch anything.  To make things better, we enjoyed a pretty frequent indulgence of vodka around the fire pit during the evenings - usually Thursday nights - which was very entertaining until we all ran out of cash for the $80 per bottle price tag on rot-gut.  Possibly, I'm in the wrong industry over here... Carlos, the gay Philippine assistant site manager of our office compound was on speed dial and would sashay into our compound with our order and a lot of sass - all in very broken English - imagine a flaming queen, waltzing into our camp, palms out, runway walk, cig in one hand saying things like "oh, you bad boys, bad lay-dies Hee Hee - who be bad for Carlos?" - I can't even describe how surreal that situation was, but I hope I never forget it.   Lord.

 

 So now I'm out at FOB Wilson - middle of a combat zone, during combat season.  I'd been here last year so I knew what to expect.  Cannon guns going off at night, always on notice for attack.  I live on the other side of the wall from the District Governor's compound which keeps coming up as a prime target for attack.  I have to work over there frequently.  There are a ton of Afghan's milling about and the security is run by the ANP - not a unit I have any confidence in.  I do have private security and am escorted everywhere - including the shower, but I just put an end to that during the day.  This is a joint camp with the ANA so Afghans in uniform are all over the place here and I can't say I like it, but will adapt.  They are weird around women - mostly nice, but plenty of bullshit and I'm not putting up with it so we'll see how that goes.  My living container is fabulous, but there are nothing but port-o-johns and anyone can use them - including the Afghans - who basically stand on the seats and crap all over everything.  It's disgusting, but they clean them several times a day.  Blech!

I will be working closely with the District Governor and the projects work much differently than they do in Kandahar City.  For one thing, it's easier for the Taliban to intimidate people.  They cut the ears off of several workers on one of our projects two weeks ago and it's been hard to get the locals to show up for work - as you can imagine.  We award contracts for projects under the stipulation that locals are hired

my trailer - complete with plastic lounge!

so you can imagine the difficulty and  understand why they don't want to come to work all the time.  There are some really cool projects going on here as well - women's empowerment, small schools, I have a radio station and DJs on my staff, agriculture projects.  I am looking forward to these and hope our funding continues so that they can move ahead.

Today I went on my first foot patrol here outside of this base.  It was about a mile and a half out to the last site and we had a military escort, but damn I was on my toes - it was rather scary to do this in this area.  That was until we hit my first construction site and I went postal about the progress and the answers from the contractor.  He obviously is making very slow progress, there were kids working on the site( a huge no-no) and then we got into an argument about the depth of the well, etc.  Nightmare... and this is to be completed in 1 month.  I have to do all of this though an interpreter with grizzled military guys standing there listening.  To make matters worse, it's next to a cemetery so people show up all day cursing the contractor's first born, the DG's wife and suggesting sex with donkies.  When I am done with this, I will be able to handle ANY general contracting work in the States!  But this is why they sent me here - isn't it weird when people see something in you that you don't quite see in yourself and you are personally clueless about their faith in you to carry out the assignments? - this goes through my head every day.  I honestly never think I know exactly what I'm doing, but somehow I do it - it's like a big series of lucky breaks.   I digress...

Soooo, we get all the way out to the last site and notice the mountains are starting to disappear.  Not a good sign.  What it means is that a huge dust storm is coming, we're a mile or so out of base and now medivac cannot come get us if anything bad happens - the helicopters cannot fly, and the military won't be able to see us.  This storm was tremendous!  Wind so strong you had to struggle to stand, choking on dust and can't see a thing because it's sandpapering your eyes, can't communicate well because you can barely speak and if you could, nobody could hear you because of the wind.  We walked back through this to base and let me tell you ... my mouth was like a sandbox, complete with the little treats the neighborhood cats used to leave in ours overnight.  My face was on fire (I had used a mud mask 4 days prior that I ended up being allergic to, so I had a raw face before the day started), I could barely open my eyes and I could feel piles of fine dirt collected in places that were covered with clothing.  I looked like an old, brown woman!  There was an amazing brown run-off when I finally got to the shower hours later - the storm didn't let up for a loonnggg time.  Happy Sunday!

one of my project sites - still sunny!

Here are some pictures from the day...

inside the site of "unhappy progress"

one of the many burial sites

headed to the Agriculture Center as the sky darkens

progress - green things!

drainage ditch

...and the storm starts coming in

...and it keeps coming - notice you can see nada

and our patrol heading back to base - last pic I took before a complete dust-out.  You can see how strong the wind was if you look at the trees.

Well, that was my day.  I am still finding dirt in weird places - both on me and in my room.  Managed to run from the shower before my wet hair turned to mud - success!  I'd also like to wish Mike K. a Happy Birthday which comes at the end of this month - just a few more days old man - I still remember your 40th party with fondness.  I get to spend another one of mine here next month but am going HOME for a visit at the end of April and I cannot wait for that to happen. Hope everyone is doing well, enjoying the gas pricing and all that price gouging like that entails!  In the words of the Captain who led our patrol today - "go get cleaned up, dusted up and get your shit straight!"  It's the season of Easter!

Drink of the evening - Chrystal Lite in a Styrofoam cup!

Dooby-Dubai

parrot

I lounge here writing this entry surrounded by Kleenex - both used and unused - in my hotel room in Dubai.  Fly out tomorrow for Afghanistan and am trying to get ahead of the nasty cold I caught while on a wonderful vacation.  I lost a complete day in Paris to it, but recovered enough to have a near perfect day the next, and final day, on my trip.  Spent a wonderful day strolling through St. Germain in the Latin Quarter and the Marais District.   Enjoyed some cafes, the streets, people and had the best French Onion Soup of my Hillbilly life. There was the most interesting little cafe that we enjoyed.  It was full of regulars - in particular, an elegant, raspy-voiced elderly Parisian woman who basically sat there and smoked, drank and visited with everyone who walked by - including a parrot.  She must do that every day and was obviously well liked by all - although I could not understand a thing she said, being that it was in French, you could tell it was funny, most likely off-color and with a bit of sass because of the laughter and reactions her remarks evoked. Stumbled into the Jewish District and had some delicious and authentic treats there - totally enthralled by this district especially considering the history and occupation of Paris during WWII - I am a history crazy.  I love when you find someplace incredibly cool and weren't even looking for it.

The Parisian Hillbilly

There's something about Paris that I really love but can't quite pinpoint.  Maybe the feel of the city and the people.  I could live there and now understand why people rave about it.  Also, although we saw quite a few unfortunates, there was no pan-handling and the kiddies were even fun, cute and well-behaved.  Imagine that! The transit system was easy to navigate and thankfully our trip to the airport with too much luggage and many subway steps went smoothly thanks to it being very early in the morning.  The Wino even managed to get stuck in the turnstile - me stuck in the space between the turnstile and electronic door, with my bag on the other side of the turnstile.  Had to ask to be released and we laughed our behinds off about it.  The day earlier, we saw someone fall up the metro steps and discussed how embarrassing that could be - not 15 minutes later, as we were reading the subway map while on the people mover, it ended without us realizing and we almost toppled to the ground - stay classy San Diego (the Ron Jeremy tag-line from Anchorman for those of you not familiar)!

The following pics don't even need captions because they are so recognizable - except for this shop.  We take a lot of pictures of markets and food because they look more delicious and well-preserved than we do - obviously.  Speaking of which, I have this good friend who is a chef at one of my favorite places in the world back at home - he has taken up making butter sculptures of famous places and events ...

Protests - not in Paris, but made of but-tah!

I love these and they crack me the hell up.

the back of the Notre Dame

The lovely Sienne

Now I'm back in Dubai, nursing a phenomenal cold and once again listening to the Muslim prayer chants via loudspeaker throughout the city.  I always seem to pick up something pretty nasty while traveling - didn't in Thailand and I think that was because I allowed myself to relax beach side for 2 weeks.  I go on these trips, already exhausted from how I live in Afghanistan, and create an endurance sport out of my travels.  I simply cannot help it - I crave getting out of there so much combined with wanting to see as much as I can and it results in me running myself into the ground.  Next trip is home and other than a jaunt to Vegas for a few days, the Wino plans on pool-side action, golf, grilling out and hanging casually with family and friends.  That should stave off any cooties. 

The airport here was crazy last night - absolutely packed with people - many of whom were fleeing the conflicts occurring throughout northern Africa and the Middle East.  Mayhem and little use of deodorant made for a slightly unpleasant end to an already long day of travels - all with an incredible head cold/sinus infection.  Then, when you left the airport to grab a taxi, there were so many people with signs, etc. in the greeting area that I felt like a Bollywood star!  Every time I watch the intensity of what's happening over here I can't help but wonder if I will be working in one of those countries next.  I personally think a governance and stabilization jaunt in Libya would be fascinating considering that its potentially a successful revolt against 40 years of oppression by a nut job.  Talk about amazing - I hope they are successful.  To be part of setting up a democracy there - where the people instigated it - would be the experience of a lifetime as compared to trying to do undertake the same goals in a country where they don't really give a camel's ass and it's all about their own personal gain .... hmmm, where could that be? Plus, right now we get to enjoy the added bonus of the rambling nonsensical  speeches given by Gaddafi (I will spell his name differently each time I use it) - how do you rally supporters you've hired to kill your own people for the purpose of you not losing your personal power and wealth - he can't even come up with any solid reasons his countrymen should continue to support him - what a goofball!  Even his big-breasted Ukrainian nurse has quit his ass and once that happens, you know the fat lady is singing.

Anycoup, back to the 'stan tomorrow morning where it sounds like it's gotten quite crazy during my absence - if the security emails I've seen via work correspondence is any indication.  I can start another 3 month countdown until my next break from there - really passes the time.  I will like to close with a huge birthday wish to one of the Hillbilly Wino's favorite men in the universe - Happy Birthday Steve G. and enjoy your weekend of fun with my other favorite man, Mike K.  After all these years, you're both still the prettiest girls on the block!

Drink of the day - hopefully some red wine to soothe my sinus passages!