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Thursday, November 11, 2010

Back in the Saddle

Finally back in Afghanistan after three glorious weeks of adventure, great food and drink.  I feel like I walked into an entirely different world.  My living conditions, job, co-workers and the whole feel of the place is entirely different - for the better.  My old co-workers were excellent people, but the new ones are from all over the world, have been doing this type of work for a long time and are generally quite interesting.  Japan, Australia, Scotland, Ireland, Germany and the UK seem to be the predominant origins with a hefty dose of Irish and Scots.  I was in a meeting the other day and during the entire event someone was playing bagpipes from their room.  Adjusting to all of the different versions of spoken English and cultural slang has been interesting, but at the end of the day, the curse words are exactly the same and I've even learned some new ones.  If I'm here past three months I can only imagine how I will come out of this experience sounding and speaking - some kind of multi-accented-hillbilly dialect is a certainty. "Whilst y'all pass along the jelly grape?" "Fook it, then ya (courtesy of the Irish!)"  Love it!

No more tent or tent walls that flap in the wind.  I now live in a lovely shipping container that has been retrofitted for habitation - that comprises the entire hotel which is basically living and work space for a variety of contractors.  I have my own bathroom which was an amazing stroke of luck and I hope I remain in this unit during my 3 months on this contract.  Different voltage so my fancy pants coffee machine and microwave are no longer usable, but who in the hell cares when you feel like you're actually living within something civilized!  Several days a week I ride over to work at our main offices which are just outside of base in their own protected fortress. I do this in an up-armored SUV (one hopes to never close one of those doors on the fingers) with a security escort, and wearing an armored vest (kind of like my one of my nephews!) - I've only tried to get out of the car with all of that equipment on before I unbuckled my seat belt twice so far - absolutely no way to play off that kind of awkwardness because you're too top heavy (something that's never been a natural problem for me).  Instead you free yourself from some ugly, hanging limbo and then tumble out of the truck - usually in front of people.  I'm learning quickly though and do freely admit that grace has never been a strong point.  At least I get up laughing.  If it were my sister, she would gracefully glide out of the SUV with all of the equipment intact and in place while happy chirping birds would be landing on her shoulders singing morning songs... she got the grace genes.

Totally different work atmosphere not being attached to a military unit.  I have a ton to figure out - like how all of these programs overlap, how to avoid unknowingly stepping on toes, new acronyms, pay systems AND my job.  Have already been researching how Muslims use public space and looking into playground design - particularly Islamic playgrounds - yes me, the Hillbilly, actually designing some religiously significant playground and park space - people who know me well will totally see the irony in that. There will also be some economic development aspects included in some of these spaces - hmmmm .... The public space and religious aspects to these parks will be the most interesting to navigate - there is no actual "public" space as a concept with which we are familiar - it is actually occupied by men here and women are highly restricted in movement and space - "public" is "male" - so I guess we can save on restrooms??  I kid, but when you really start thinking about it, there will be quite a challenge.  I have to fight the urge to leave the women's issues here alone and focus on the short term so I don't have any angry "huzzbennz" calling up the Taliban because I suggested too many "lady days" for the park districts.  Damn is this culture horrific - absolutely horrific - to their women.  That's for another post, but it disturbs me on the deepest of levels.  On a different note, I did find out they have some weird amusement park in Kandahar City - I can't wait to see it because the idea of one here cracks me the hell up.

So this weekend I take my first convoy out to Arghandab to take a peek at the existing parks there so that I can get a better idea of how to gussy them up.  I won't meet the Kandahar Mayor for three more weeks - will be working with him closely and shaping these parks per his political and personal needs and wishes.  It's interesting to participate in meetings with this new job - so many conversations surround which political figure was just killed and who may be alive in 2 months and how all of these possibilities relate to the projects that are being undertaken.  Hopefully my guy will be around for the entirety of my project!  He actually has lived in the U.S. so he has a much greater understanding of what we may be suggesting AND he loves him some parks.  But really, imagine yourself at work and having your projects dependent on the assassination cycle of events - how those affect budgeting, timelines, staffing (not to mention where you stand when you're with them) - then asking if there's fresh coffee on - friggin' surreal!  Although I'm sure many of you work with people you wouldn't really mind including in a discussion such as that.

Well then, I am actually enjoy my big weekend night which now falls on Thursdays.  We work with so many Afghans that Friday has to be our day off because of their holy day.  I have a TV in my room that gets three channels and two are HBO from India but with American movies - by the way, who did Brendan Frasier piss off that resulted in him having the lead in "George of the Jungle" - my mind is still spongy from having that on while I was in the same room.  Anytherewentyourcareerbrendan, I would like to wish my brother a very happy birthday this Monday - so far I'm still claiming him and he me and I'm certain he is still glowing from the Republican coup in the midterms - I'm glad I'm not home just so I don't have to hear about it!  Pickle, I hope you have an incredible birthday and I wish I were there for the family get together this weekend.  Side note - I'm a raging liberal spawned from a household where that wasn't necessarily the case.  However, kudos to all of 'em for the phenomenal progress they've made in the last 20 years!  I think I caved a little in their direction as well, but we certainly don't like to discuss politics at family gatherings!  Love them all to death though.  Hope everyone has an excellent fall weekend of football and chili and anything else that feels like pre-holidays!

Drink of the night - some wine I brought back from Dubai but then found out I'm not supposed to have ... and hot tea! Cheers!

Friday, November 5, 2010

Meister Berger - Berger Meister

For some weird reason, being in the Bavarian region of Germany constantly reminds me of those Christmas shows from the 60s and 70s - the Berger Meister, Meister Berger was the villain from one of them who wanted to cancel Christmas. Weird what you think about while on vacation. I think it's the architecture that reminds me of those programs - or all the beer combined with German accents. But the place is certainly Christmasy to me!

I've finally come to the last leg of my trip and I'm starting to feel it. Tired, but enjoying the walking and seeing new places. Germany has been very interesting. They don't have much, if any, signage in English nor many menus,etc. Which is weird considering that every place else I've been was very accommodating in that way. Hmmm, it's almost like they still are expecting the world to be German speaking ... So I've been getting along by asking questions - everyone seems to speak English, they just don't include it on any printed material. The odd thing is that it's assumed I'm German before American - must be the blue eyes, height and "sturdy" constitution! There are also no English channels at my hotel except for 1 BBC news channel. Watching the Simpsons in German was hysterical.

I've spent most of my time in the old section of the city, which isn't really terribly old by European standards. Did have a giant beer in the original Hofbrauhaus - the version in Newport on the Ohio river is one of my most favorite places, so it was really wonderful to be in the original ... Until I found out later that it was also the site of Hitlers first Nazi shindig and that Munich was pretty much the birthplace of that movement... But we can't blame the Hofbrauhaus for that now, can we?! I am a huge fanatic of WWII history and being in Europe always gets my imagination flowing. Today I spent a somber day at Dachau Concentration Camp which was moving and amazing beyond words. To actually visit a place that I've read so much about and watched endless documentaries was truly a lifelong experience realized. I'm very tactile and need to see and touch things for myself. Hell, I would have licked the Parthenon if I could have arranged to get close enough! What struck me first was that none of the rooms that they processed all of these people, made them shower, confined them - none of them were terribly big. I was also struck at what a beautiful setting such horrible things occurred within. Apparently the actual town began as an artist colony and Dachau was the first publicized camp - it was actually the learning and training center for all other camps. I could go on and on but I won't. Needless to say it made quite an impact on me - the entire site is treated as a cemetery ... As it should be. Incredible.

Now for some observations and generalizations from my travels. I leave for Dubai tomorrow evening so now is the time for reflection!
1. All of the computer and electronic parts stores in Munich were filled with Middle Eastern men - not comforting considering what's been shipped around town lately by extremist groups.
2. No matter where you are, certain minority groups appear to always be at the bottom of the social ladder. I find this fascinating.
3. People will always stop dead in their tracks to look around in the middle of the busiest intersections
4. Line cutting is a common practice overseas
5. Strollers should be banned as should traveling with screaming babies and toddlers. Really, how much fun can that be for the family, let alone everyone else - what will babies and toddlers remember anyway?
6. Dogs get to go everywhere - both "go's" apply.
7. Canadians, Australians and Americans will always talk to you - this is especially great when travelling solo - you get bored with yourself.
8. Prostitutes don't like having their pictures taken
9. Politeness gets you everything - from room upgrades to freebies at the cafes
10. Having your laundry done at the hotel will cost you an organ, or an arm or leg
11. People are extremely fascinating

So now I head back to Afghanistinkistan. I don't even know my new address or where I will be living, but I'm very excited to begin this new adventure when I return. I will greatly miss the freedom to roam, decent Internet and things not exploding nearby on a regular basis - oh yes, and I will miss restful sleep. Thank you for the kind notes, feedback on the posts and pictures and on-going support during my mid-life cris... I mean "adventure". These last three weeks have been the experience of a lifetime and I hope to continue to compile them. I may get one more post in before I return, but if not, I have no idea when I will have Internet, etc, with my new gig. Will update as soon as possible. Hope everyone had a wonderful week!

Drink of the Night - a French Bordeaux


Old City Hall

Marienplatz


Hofbrauhaus!

inside the beerhall


market area in Old City

loved this flower stand

Intrance to Dachau

barracks on left, processing center on right

Memorial Sculpture

Second memorial - missing pink triangles (and a few others) 


markings of where other barracks buildings were

Jewish Memorial

Crematorium

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Love for Sale

Amsterdam was a quick but really fun trip. The weather forced me into more touristy activities which ended up being great ideas. I arrived in Amsterdam early Monday afternoon after an educational train navigation trip. Made it from Brugge to Brussels but got off at wrong station (there were 3) so I ended up taking a cattle car, rather than the swanky Thalys line to Amsterdam. My hotel was in a great location and was a very quirky size and shape - loved it though. The staircase - as I was warned by my friend in London - was narrow, steep and was an instrument of torture ... For the guy who carried my bag up it. Went right to the main area and walked around, ate, drank some beer and later had a very nice dinner. The smell of weed wafted through the air at every turn. Sat in one of the infamous coffee shops and enjoyed a cocktail as I received a contact buzz from all the pot smoke in the air - I also smiled fondly at the wonderful memories of college that smell evoked.

that long building is where my hotel is located

the stairway of torture

some of the many famous houseboats


The second day was cold and rainy so I hit the Ann Frank museum that was right across the street from my hotel. Incredibly interesting experience as was the city's history during WWII - which is now overrun with German made cars rather than the "Nasties" (my term for the Nazis). From there I jumped in a cruise boat after purchasing a 24 hour ticket and rode two complete lines through the city. Perfect thing to do on a rainy and cold day. Really was able to see the city since walking wasn't going to be much of an option.


That night I ventured down the road to the Red Light District which was pretty tame - other than the women in the windows advertising their services and the live sex shows. Fun bars and very lively area. Apparently you are not to photo the women in the windows. I was taking pics of the canals and beautifully lit buildings when a very angry prostitute marched into her doorway and cussed me out in at least 3, maybe 4 languages - the last being English which I clearly understood and she gets points for her creative insults! What could I do but take my verbal punishment, hand gesture an apology and walk on. Her verbal tirade was in total contrast to her school girl outfit, I must say. And, I WAS trying to sneak a pic in of her storefront...
a happy hillbilly!


flower market

red light district

this is shot that had the prostitute seeing red - you can see her in the window if you look hard enough

this church was in the middle of the red light district

see, I was also taking pics of the buildings and canals


Anyangryprostie, I really loved this city. Similar to Brugge but much more urban. Wish I could have walked it more, but the weather did not cooperate. I have now just arrived in Munich so more on Germany in a day or so.

Drink of the night - Bier!

Sunday, October 31, 2010

Brugge - Happy Halloween!

I don't even know what to say - Brugge is beautiful.  I arrived yesterday after an amazing stay in London and my gracious and generous hostess even walked me through the train issues.  Train connection was changed in Brussels and the only people who didn't move were all English speaking - conspiracy maybe? So I stood on the platform with some very nice people for an extra hour which was no big deal.  Arrived late afternoon and literally hit the bricks to stroll around this stunning city.  My hotel is very unique and I have an excellent view - very close to the Belfry and main square so once I find that I can navigate back to home base.

So after I arrived, I walked down to the main square and positioned myself at a nice little table to enjoy some Belgian beers.  Ended up sitting next to some awesome people from Canada - two sisters and their husbands - who kindly invited me to enjoy some drinks with them and then we walked down the way and had a fabulous dinner.  Extremely nice and fun people and a great way to spend my first night.  Only issue was that I'd had enough beer to cause me to read my map upside down and therefore it took me an hour to return to my hotel - which was only a short walk down the road.  Live and learn.  I even had to stop under a light along the beautiful canal to whip out my bifocals because I couldn't see my own map - I really don't feel that old, but apparently am.  Finally returned, opened my window and soon discovered that the buildings across the street were youth hostels and full of incredibly drunk adventurers - at about 4am I finally suggested (from my open window) that they consider having intimate relations with their own pie holes which was ineffective since nobody seemed to speak English.  No worries and I envied their Halloween weekend adventure which sounded like fun.  This morning I awoke and enjoyed a ciggie out the window only to get a little taste of pre-Amsterdam when I looked down and over and witnessed a very private "blanket wrestle" from my window - ah, to be in my 20s again!




the best cappuccino I've ever had!





private backyard garden along the canal

mind boggling building facade


Belfry at night

this was behind my hotel and I didn't know it until tonight



So today I walked until I wore myself out.  Began the day with the best cup of cappuccino I've ever had and a Belgian waffle with chocolate, strawberries, whipped cream, powdered sugar and a small dollop of ice cream.  Damn - this place isn't nearly large enough to walk something like that off, but it was delicious!  Totally lost myself in Brugge and discovered some amazing spots by just walking and not navigating with a map. A bit rainy this morning but cleared up late afternoon.  This place is seriously phenomenal. Finally made my way back, took a beer nap and then back out for the evening where I had a pot of mussels that were so delicious that they were sinful.   Really great visit and the perfect amount of time - two nights is about all you need here if you don't museum or do guided tours.  One side note, the only English speaking channel today played a Hanna Montana marathon - what the hell?? That show is horrible and so is that girl - long story short, the foreign programming was making sense to me after a bit - thankfully!

Tomorrow I'm off to Amsterdam - don't have train tickets yet, but will do that as I go.  Cannot wait to experience that city as I've been told by many people I will love it ... whatever that means... but I AM just a couple blocks from the Red Light District which I cannot wait to see and hang out and about in - and my hotel is across the street from the Ann Frank house so I will get a good mix of history and naughty all in the same place - sign me up!

Drink of the day - Belgian Zot beer - "burp"

Thursday, October 28, 2010

London Calling!

Hello!  I am towards the end of a pretty fantastic stay in London.  This has been made even better by the fact that I am staying with a dear old friend who has also been the most gracious hostess - including spectacular instructions for using the tube (I am now a master and jump trains effortlessly), and not freaking out at having a sick puppy in her home for the past few days (me).  This city is fantastic and my friend lives in a beautiful part of London with an excellent local pub right behind her flat.  I unfortunately was down with a cold for two days, but am now back among the functioning - much better to be sick in the comfort of a friend's apartment than in a strange hotel room.
London Tower


On wall walkway and headed towards another tower



My favorite!- taken from the spot Ann Boleyn was beheaded - nice last view

London Tower - Thames side view
Big Ben
I am a huge fan of history - WWII, the monarchy, spread of the Roman empire, etc. - as well as a film aficionado and I have a special place in my heart for British films and BBC programming.  It's been amazing to actually see things like the Tower of London, Westminster Abbey and walk through Hyde Park - where so much history has passed and so many film locations have been based.  Also very cool to walk on the streets that have been included in so many music lyrics - The Strand, Baker Street... I love Roxy Music... Anyway, I'm a bit frustrated that I lost a few days to a cold which most likely will nix a trip to Oxford and Windsor Castle, but I suppose I will have to come back.  I was pretty much digging hanging around the site where Ann Boleyn was executed inside London Tower and listening to all the morbid and creepy stories the guides around me were telling.  I also LOVE old cemeteries and anything that looks like it will creek when you walk on it - in other words, anything old with extra points going to architectural significance.

Parliament - Thames side

Westminster Abbey


Today I woke up late thanks to a combo of a cold and being out late last night for dinner and too many drinks (tons of fun though).  So I got up and just started walking - through Kennsington Gardens (right past Kennsington Palace) then the Hyde Park and down to Buckingham Palace, through the Horse Guards and Old Admiralty down the Strand and back to Charing Cross Road (also in the title of an excellent Anne Bancroft movie) - it was a long walk, but the coolest thing was that I happened upon a few events that I had no idea were happening and did not plan - the best way to see things in my opinion.  I get to Buckingham Palace right when the changing of the guards is starting .  Had no clue and it was incredibly cool to see while not having planned to do so.  Then an auto escort comes out of the palace as I'm headed down the main road and I turn around to look at it and inside the car was somebody obviously pretty important and in an official uniform - I won't venture as to who it may have been but I was impressed by the escort alone.  Anyeasilyimpressed, it was a very entertaining morning and early afternoon.  I finally pooped out from walking all over creation and took the train back and had a well deserved pint and an even more well deserved nap.

Kennsington Gardens - beautiful stroll
Tomorrow is my last day here and then I leave Saturday for Brugge, Belgium and will once again be pursuing travels on my own (minus the excellent company in the evening that I have enjoyed while in London).  I'm taking the train there too which will be a nice break from the airport - my flight from Greece included a full plane and in my row... a guy with a cold who never covered his face when he sneezed and coughed, between him and me was some Greek version of Butterfly McQueen - she talked to herself the whole time, sighed constantly, sucked food out of her teeth for 45 minutes and leaned into my seat and personal space for the entire flight - four hours.  On the other side of me was horrific B.O.  Needless to say, I am looking forward to a break from the trials of the international airport and am ready to enjoy a train ride through Belgium.  I think I'm also taking one from there to Amsterdam as well.


Buckingham Palace

mounted guards headed towards the palace
London has been quite enjoyable so far and I still have about 10 days to enjoy my travels before I have to return to Afghanistinkistan and back to Muslim-land.  I don't even want to think about it, but it should turn out to be a great improvement - new job, digs, people and purpose! Hope you are all enjoying your week.

Drink of the Day - an espresso for breakfast and an ice cold draft beer in the afternoon - perfect!